hanging copper planters

Okay, I lied last post. I did work on a home project, but only because it was a very inspiring anniversary gift.

Jeremy and I celebrated 7 years last month (woot!), and we always do a spin on the traditional gift for each other, partly because it helps spur our creativity and partly because it's just fun. The seven year traditional anniversary gift is copper.

So, I might have convinced him to purchase some 3.5" copper half spheres for me to make into air plant planters. (I've really wanted air plants for awhile, so perfect timing.) THEN Inspiration struck. It struck like it hasn't in quite a while. Remember the far-off-and-away post explaining my living room dilemma?

(like from 2 years ago? okay, maybe only one. Still, I'm sure you remember. *eye roll* Or not.)

Where I couldn't decide what to put here? In that annoying space left from my off-center living room shelves? AHHH! A year later my creative brain has pulled through, thankyouverymuch.

I was limiting my imaginings to something I could hang on the wall - instead I came up with something to hang from the upper shelf. YES! And voilà. 

While copper isn't cheap, the rest of the items to complete the project were pretty simple:

- 3 copper half spheres
- suede lace
- cup hooks
- air plants (found here) 

Super simple process: I knotted 3 pieces of suede lace - all approximately the same size for one planter - at the top and bottom. Each one I made slightly different lengths on purpose. Install cup hooks, slide in half spheres and hang! And that's that! 

(I know my shelves need some summer styling love. Anyone want to come help? I'm so out of it.) 

Don't expect too much more in this realm, but I did have to share.

Interested in air plants? Check out this tutorial from the girls at A Beautiful Mess to find out more! They are pretty cool!

DIY: Wall Sprinkles + Free Word Art

While I wait to help my parents decorate their new retirement home (next month!), I'm slowly making changes to live well in our space here in Kansas.

I painted two walls in our bedroom, but wanted to make another statement wall opposite. Except no more paint, please.

Enter ... metallic contact paper! (find here) I originally wanted 2" polka dots, but my circle cutter just made a mess with the adhesive on the contact paper. So, plan B was 2" squares that I randomly placed across the wall in about 20 minutes.

It's fun and easily remove-able when I'm done. (Plus, it would make a fun statement wall for renters who can't paint their walls.)

I also made a little word art to finish up my typewriter vignette. I thought about putting it on the wall, but it seemed just right propped up behind my little Brother Valiant.

(I can't sell the print, because the colored banner and one of the fonts is for personal use only, but if you want this pdf in a different color, I can send you a copy for free!! Just leave a comment and I'll contact you.)

inspired shelves (yet unfinished)

I've never really loved this living room shelf.

I loved the idea of it ... but it turned out pretty underwhelming considering the space.

So, when my FIL was in town for a few days during graduation this month, I twisted his arm and had him help me hang new shelves. I took the two brackets from the previous shelf and stole the other two from the girl's room and used Mandi's inspiration to hang these shelves.

The only thing I did differently was use regular screws for the studs and machine screws (plus hex nuts) for the shelves because the holes were a lot smaller in my brackets than the ones she used.

I've been trying to decide where to use this corbel from my in-laws 100+ year old farm house when it struck me -- looks like an "S"! Why not use it as a monogram? It adds some dramatic height that I love.

I'm going with a bit of a green theme to bring in some color as well as a little purple and yellow ... to bring out the fun colors in my vintage curtains. Love this little ceramic bird from the hobby store, compliments of my sis and bro-in-law. (Gotta love gift cards!)

So, here's my dilemma. I love asymmetry, but I think that the shelves need some balance. All along, I have been planning to put something in the space below, but I can't decide what. 

Any ideas? Here are a few things I've considered.

String art.

source

Vintage arrow or arrow marqee (except they are $$$!)

source

Or a DIY reclaimed wood arrow?

source

Or a framed photo? Or...? Any other ideas I'm missing? I need your help filling this space!

Last question: if you look back at the photo of the shelves, is there too much "fluff" going on? (i.e. the feathers on the left, the faux branches on the right, and the spikey plant on the bottom?) Should I use a different texture? If so, what?

new kitchen color

I had a problem in my kitchen. (I have many other kitchen problems, just ask my husband about the chickens.) This one didn't have to do with food, though. After about 5 years of yellow in my kitchen, the walls had seen better days. Chair scrapes, paint peeling, stains ... you get the picture.

Brilliant idea #1 
"I'll go get the same paint at the hardware store."

Um, no. After 5 years, the paint colors change.


Brilliant idea #2
"Color match!"

No chipping pieces I could conveniently pull to color match.


Brilliant (and final) idea #3
"Repaint!!"

So, I did, with a gallon of free paint from the county paint drop-off (you can get rid of old paint there or get some "new" for free!). And I love the new look!

DIY antiqued antique mirror

So last summer I was scouring my in-laws old farm house (yet again!) after they'd cleaned out their attic. In amongst the treasures was a small old window. It just looked like a small window because you could see right through the glass, but on closer inspection, I realized that it was a mirror! Almost all of the silvering had come off (sniff!). The wood finish was cracking from changes in temperature and age and was so rustic and pretty looking.

When I went to wash off the grime with just a little water, the silvering completely cleaned off to show the quality beveled glass. And the wooden frame? You would have to break wood off the back to get the glass out, so I wanted the glass to stay.

But I wanted it to be a mirror. Hmm.

I looked into re-silvering but had a terrible time finding someone to do it. The man I talked to literally said that everyone that used to do it was dead. The reason no one does it anymore is because the chemicals used to take the old silvering off were banned because of how crazy dangerous they are! However, since my mirror was already de-silvered, I just needed the mirror coating put back on.

No luck.

I did talk to a guy who wanted about $200 for an un-perfected silvering method he was working on. I said, "Uh, no thanks."

Then I ran into an online tutorial (the link is for a more recent version) for a similar, albeit faux, look with Looking Glass spray paint from the hobby store.

$7 with coupon? Yes, please!

I broke it out last weekend to *finally* work on this long-time-coming DIY and here is the result.

I didn't re-read the tutorial before I got into it, and I wish I would've. I followed the instructions on the can to use 5 thin coats instead of the one thick coat Jenny recommends. I think the bright sunshine plus the extra time sealed in some of the smaller droplets I would've liked to rubbed off. Oh well.

It was also difficult to see exactly where all of the water/vinegar drops landed and I think I would've made some of them a little less uniform for a more authentic look.

I topped it off with a few coats of black spray paint (so instead of seeing through the spots where the looking glass spray was wiped away, it would look black like an antique mirror) and added two small eye hooks and a picture hanging wire. 

Overall I'm pleased! My "new" mirror has found a home on the wall near our bed. I'm working on a several more changes before I reveal the whole bedroom look (if I can call it that, ha!). So stay tuned!

:-)

easy DIY skeleton key art

I have a little DIY art project to share today with skeleton keys.

I've been sort of drooling over skeleton keys and my in-laws picked some up for me at a flea market/antique store last fall. I saw this idea on Pinterest and decided to try it out.

I'd had some framed square pictures with dried flowers and a Bible verse in it - they were a wedding gift and something that was nice, but just not my style to begin with, but I'd hung them on the kitchen wall because I could (note to self: not a very good reason). I was considering buying some frames for my skeleton key art when I remembered these lonely frames!

The art was easily removed and I popped the glass out. I trimmed a small piece of white burlap to fit the square, and then I just refitted the glass and a piece of cardboard to the back - that way if I want to redo these frames again (or donate/sell them), the exact glass is there, but doesn't bother me a bit in the meantime. I flipped them over and hot glued the keys straight to it. That's it!

 I rehung them next to my DIY kitchen pegboard and their value has increased 100 times to me - even though it didn't cost me anything at all. (And I actually like them now, ha!)

 Don't you love the keys' character?

DIY kitchen pegboard

SUPPLIES:
1 painted pegboard (2'x4')
1 assorted pack of pegboard hooks (including screws and plastic spacers) 

TOOLS:
drill & bits
stud finder
measuring tape

Side note: I'm taking this time to show off my finally completed table makeover. Chairs! A very exciting Christmas present from my in-laws.

I wanted to do mis-matched antique and vintage chairs but looked all last summer and had no luck. I'm really loving industrial lately, so I went for some metal bistro chairs. Delight!

Back to the pegboard.

First I found the middle of the wall, the middle of the pegboard and found the studs. In our house, this is easy ... you just look for the pattern of nail bulges up the wall (yuck). Otherwise, use a stud-finder.

The pegboard holes are exact inches apart, so make sure you are on a perfect inch when you drill into the studs and it should line up just right! (If you want to hang very heavy items - like cast iron skillets - you may need to build a frame and secure the pegboard better. For my little vintage items, this way is fine.)

Then, I slipped the spacer between the wall and the pegboard on the screw and drilled the screw in.

Side note: my studs didn't line up with the middle of the wall, so my pegboard is centered but one set of screws are 10 pegs in and the other is 7. No big deal. After everything is up, you don't really notice anyway.

Now it's time to hang 'til your heart's content! I LOVE vintage utensils and several were just hanging out in my cupboards waiting for a good idea and then BAM!

Pegboard.

And the "EAT" sign I grabbed from above my kitchen sink, hung it with a plastic anchor I shoved in one of the holes and I love it about 1000x more here. 

Cheers!

1970s Wool Maxi Skirt to Winter Plaid Pillows

My grandma has been downsizing and cleaning out her closet ... from the 1950s-1980s! I haven't been able to wear or keep everything, but I have several gems that I'm so excited about (remind me to show you the black velvet 50s dress!).

This 1970s handmade maxi was one that I loved, but, alas, can't wear. It was slightly too tight around the waist and slightly too short. (We tall ladies often run into that problem!) You can hem a skirt, but it's hard to make it longer. Anyway, right away I loved the plaid and decided that it would make cozy fall/winter pillows. (I know, another pillow, excuse my sewing skills - or lack thereof...)

Pillow forms were on sale at the craft store, so I grabbed a 14x14 and a 16x16 form with a Christmas giftcard. I've found that the loose stuffing makes sorta lumpy pillows - does anyone have any pointers in using it? I have lots that I've thrifted but lumpy pillows aren't exactly pretty.

Anyway. Here they are!

I ended up cutting the fabric poorly (use your rotary cutter and mat!), so I cut the 14x14 twice and then didn't have enough for my full second pillow. So, I cut the pillow on a seam and actually really love it.

 And, the back of the larger pillow I matched with some upcycled (formerly the inside of another pillow) fabric. It works.

And, I think I'm going to recover our headboard with dropcloth for a more neutral backdrop to work with. What do you think?

DIY Industrial Curtain Rod (under $30!)

Next up, some "industrial" magic!

In November, we got new windows. (*ensue uproarious applause*) Many thanks to our complex and Windows World for their decision to replace the heavy, gunky, leaky (nasty) windows from 1988. 

However, one slight hiccup in the whole replacement process... We have gotten by with a tension rod hanging our bedroom curtains for 4 years. The trim they placed around the windows to seal them up stole that space and made the tension rod unusable. 

Well, darn, I guess I'll have to come up with a DIY solution ... insert DIY Industrial Curtain Rod!

This project definitely was not a lowest-cost-ever DIY. You can definitely find a curtain rod for less than $30. But, if you are going for a certain look (i.e. industrial), it's just gonna cost a little more.

I followed this tutorial but decided to do my own DIY to improve on some of the questions I had along the way.

SUPPLIES:
**from the plumbing section of the hardware store: 2 floor flanges, 2 (90 deg) elbows, 2 nipples (all the same size - I wanted to do 1/2" and it may've proved slightly cheaper, but I wanted it then, so I got what they had - 3/4")
**from the electrical section of the hardware store: one (1) 10 ft length of 3/4" electrical conduit pipe
**from IKEA (or other store with a curtain section): a set of clippy curtain rings

TOOLS:
Screw driver, drill & bits, hack saw (or pipe cutters), #10 phillips screws (mine were 1-1/2" long) and drywall anchors. 

First, I measured and marked where I wanted the flanges to go. (The galvanized metal made quite a mess of my wall where I scooted it around. Beware!) You'll notice that I didn't 1) put them all the way up to the ceiling (naughty) and 2) placed them just outside the perimeter of my window (also design naughty) so my curtains would close. Because seriously people, my curtains were $40 a panel (wedding gift) and I saw no need to replace them, so I'm working with what I have. Thus, my rod placement.

The huge benefit to this was that I didn't actually need the drywall anchors at all! Every time I pulled the drill away from the hole, I realized that I was pulling away bits of wood. The window frame must've been in just the right spot. Woo hoo!

I installed the first flange with 4 screws. Then, I screwed in nipple 1. I thought this might be difficult, but they have some kind of grease on them, so it was very easy to turn. I just turned until it caught - I didn't try to force it.

Then I washed my hands.

Don't forget to put your first curtain clippy loop on before your elbow! This pulls the curtain around to the side so you don't have that annoying light coming in the side of your window on Saturday morning.

Well, I have a 3-year old, the sun never wakes me up. What am I saying? 

Then, screw the elbow on just like you did the nipple, except you will have to work with the placement as it needs to be turned toward the opposite side to hold the actual rod.

Assemble other side like the first but do not attach it to the wall.

Then, measure the distance between the installed corner and where you want the other plus about 1/2" - for the rod to slide into the elbow.  Not gonna lie, this part was difficult to get just right (you'll find out why in a moment).

Mark the pipe and start sawing!

Take a break if you think your arm is going to fall off, and when you've finally cut through, congratulate yourself. (OR, if you have more patience, take the measurement to the hardware store and have them cut it with a pipe cutter in two seconds flat.)

Then, see how it fits. Unfortunately, my measurements were slightly off and ... I had to cut another inch off! Gag.

Lesson learned.

I'd suggest doing the next part with another person, because it was tricky to hold everything in place at once. (Plus, if you are just one person, you can't take pictures of the process!)

Grab a ladder or a chair and insert one side of the rod into the already installed elbow. Then don't forget to put the other curtain rings on (!) and slide the other fully assembled (but not installed) elbow on the other side.

While holding it all in place, screw the other floor flange into the wall. The placement of the drill was kind of awkward at this point, so some of the screws were less than straight, but it wasn't terrible and it is still exremely sturdy. Plus, it looks amazing.

There you have it! A DIY industrial curtain rod all your own for less than $30.

Let me know if I missed anything!

Cost breakdown:

10ft (3/4") metal conduit pipe - $3.12
2 (@$2.37) 90 degree galvanized elbows (3/4") - $4.74
2 (@$1.54) galvanized nipples (3/4" x 2") - $3.08
2 (@ $7.69) 3/4" galvanized floor flanges - $15.38
pack of 8 (10x1-1/2") sheet metal screws - $1.18

TOTAL (including tax) = $29.84